Bandhej : A Traditional Textile

 Bandhani is crafted using a hand technique, hence the use of heavy-duty industrial dyes and dye-stuffs is limited or absent. Initially, Bandhej was done using only natural dyes like Indigo or colors extracted from plant roots, vegetables, flowers, and leaves. With time, man-made chemical dyes were introduced in Bandhani making. These dyes give vibrant colors and are faster. Most Bandhani fabrics, nonetheless, lose color on washing, as there is a good amount of re-dyeing involved. Today, a just mix of natural and synthetic dyes is used to dye Bandhanis.

Bandhani needs a resilient base, as the fabric is subjected to intricate tying and multiple rounds of dyeing. This fabric must also be able to withstand the stretching, while opening/ unraveling knots. The base fabric must also be absorbent, so as to satisfactorily absorb colors, during the hand-dyeing process.

Traditionally, fine mill-made cotton or muslins were used to create Bandhani. The contemporary artisans, given the changing preferences, also work on fine georgettes, art silks, silk-cotton blends, viscose, and cotton variants. Pure Venkatigiri cotton, sourced from Andhra Pradesh, is used to create traditional Gharcholas. Georgettes with pure Banarasi brocade borders are used to make vibrant and colorful, high-end Jhankaar Bandhanis.

Owing to great demand, Bandhani is also done in Silk. However, pure silk, on its own, is fragile and lacks the resilience, intricate, tight tying, and unraveling need. Silks run the risk of tearing. Delicate silk may also lose its texture, given the crushing and crinkling. Pure silk bandhani's, thus, are rare and expensive. Most silk fabrics used for Bandhanis are blended with cotton or viscose. Pure georgettes (made from silk fibers) are also extremely popular as base materials for crafting expensive Bandhani.

Madhya Pradesh and Punjab also produce Bandhani. The patterns employed are thicker and bigger. The tying methods differ and may be done using kidney beans, pebbles, coins, etc.

Notably, in the erstwhile province of Sindh, now in Pakistan, a certain style of coarser Bandhani is quite popular. Sindhi communities across India and Pakistan use this Bandhej. The Sindhi Bandhani was revived in Pakistan’s port city Karachi, primarily by Khatri immigrants from Kutch (Gujarat). The Block Printing technique of Kutch’s Ajrakh, though created differently, is also culturally associated with Sindhi Bandhani. Another lesser known variation of the tie-dye is practiced in the Southern state of Tamil Nadu. Brought to the towns of Madurai and Chinnalapatti by Sourashtrian Gujaratis centuries ago, Sungudi (the Southern Bandhani) also works around the typical ‘dots’ motifs. However, the fading art of Sungudi, as used in light-weight, cotton Sungudi Sarees, needs revival. The sarees are expensive, and the process is labor intensive, owing to which this industry has been facing survival issues.

If you want to purchase bandhani suits and sarees then I would like to recommend you to visit Rajasthali Cottage Industries, they are genuine sellers of bandhej suits and sarees online in India, where you will get a perk to choose from a wide variety of designer collections of bandhej suits and sarees all at the best reasonable price point. You can visit their website or can also visit their shop in Jodhpur.