Bandhani : A Traditional Textile

 The word Bandhani/ Bandhni comes from the Hindi/ Sanskrit words ‘Bandhna’ and ‘Bandha’, meaning ‘tying’ or ‘to tie’. Bandhej is a variation of this word. Bandhani refers to the traditional Indian ‘tie and dye‘ art (resist-dyeing technique that uses impermeable threads for tying), used to produce beautiful, fine circular patterns on fabrics.

Tie and Dye methodology, in various forms, is used frequently in the textile design industry, on fabrics, t-shirts, bandanas, scarves and dresses. In the West, this became a rage in the late 60s and is associated with the Bohemian and Hipster cultures. African Tie and Dye techniques are also well known.

In South-East Asia, tie and dye assume the stature of an art form. Done by hand, through intricate, skill-intensive processes, these techniques are rooted in local cultures. In Japan, traditional tie and dye are called Shibori (seen on Japanese Kimonos), while in Malay-Indonesia, Plangiand Tritikare popular tie and dye versions. These arts make use of intricate stitching (to create resistance), followed by dyeing. In Thailand, the popular Mudmee technique is used to create Shibori-like tie and dye patterns on a unique black base.

Bandhani is the Indian version of ‘tie and dye’. The patterns formed in Bandhani are way finer. It typically works with small circular patterns – the ‘dots’ or ‘specks’ motifs, created using skilled tying - using fingernails, iron nails etc. The distinctive Bandhani dots are used to create various designs, ranging from floral to animal patterns. Sometimes, small squares or other variations are created too. Lehariya or leheriya is another popular Indian tie and dye technique, used to create ‘lehar’ or wave patterns. Practised avidly in Rajasthan, it is used to create vibrant turbans, sarees and dupattas.

Bandhani is considered very auspicious, especially in Rajasthan and Gujarat. From weddings to births, Bandhani finds a sacred association everywhere. Legends have it that wearing Bandhani Sarees invites good luck. There was a time when all brides in Western India wore Wedding Sarees or Bridal Lehenga Cholis decorated with fine Bandhani. The Gujarati Gharchola (the Bridal Saree gifted from the groom’s family) and Panetar (Gujarati Wedding Ensemble) have delicate Bandhani work. In Rajasthan, the varying Bandhani patterns and colours of the turbans worn by menfolk indicate their castes and communities. Bandhani is also used to convey life stages. While red represents marriage, yellow signifies motherhood and green signifies fertility.

Bandhani has been culturally associated with the West-Indian states of Gujarat and Rajasthan. Patterns and motifs used in Gujarati and Rajasthani Bandhej have been quite been sought after. Finer the Bandhani, steeper the price! Delicate Bandhej is made in Gujarat’s Kutch belt, especially Mandvi. Families in Mandavi, Anjar, Jamnagar, Bhuj have been employed in the Bandhani trade, for centuries. The Kutchi Bandhej, also made in the entire Saurashtra belt, is relatively coarser. Simpler Bandhani patterns are tied in other areas of Gujarat, including Ahmedabad, Deesa, Morbi, Porbandar and Rajkot and Surendranagar district. Jamnagar is popular for dyeing Bandhej fabrics, especially if the colour is from the red palette, as the water quality of this region is believed to lend amazing brightness to the reds.

In Rajasthan, the finest Bandhani is tied in the desert town of Bikaner, and in the Sikar district. The entire Jaipur belt also produces Bandhani. Apart from this, most cities of Rajasthan have their own Bandhani centres. Bagru, Block printing and Leheriya are other hand textile crafts popularly practised in Rajasthan.

 

 

If you want to purchase bandhani suits and sarees then I would like to recommend you to visit Rajasthali Cottage Industries, they are genuine sellers of bandhej suits and sarees online in India, where you will get a perk to choose from a wide variety of designer collections of bandhej suits and sarees all at the best reasonable price point. You can visit their website or can also visit their shop in Jodhpur.